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Lynn Scott's
Lepidoptera Index |
Storing and Handling Live MothsMoths are cold-blooded creatures, and live moths are best stored in the refrigerator or in a cooler. When chilled, a moth becomes torpid, reducing the likelihood that it will continue to flutter against the inside of its container, losing scales from its wings in the process. The top of the thorax is particularly susceptible to wear, and even moths that have never been captured may arrive at the lights with a noticeable bald spot on the thorax and faded, tattered wings. Freezing will kill most moths, but normal refrigerator temperatures will not harm them. When removed from the fridge, the moths will become normally active again as they warm up. Large moths can take some time to warm up completely, usually allowing some minutes for photography before they become so active that they are difficult to photograph. Small moths, however, have so little body mass that they warm up very quickly, sometimes becoming active in a matter of seconds. The effect of chilling may also vary from one species to another, as species that fly very early or very late in the season are generally more acclimatized to temperatures close to the freezing point. Because the moths are torpid when chilled, there is no need for a container with air holes for short-term storage. Moths will generally live refrigerated for several days, unless they were close to death when captured; in one instance, I had an overlooked specimen that spent nearly a month chilled before it was re-photographed and released. I have also heard of collectors relying on freezing as a killing method, only to find that some species that over-winter as adults failed to succumb when put in the freezer for several months. Freezing, however, is not recommended for storage if the intention is to keep the moths alive for additional photos. As they warm up, some moths become active very quickly, getting their legs underneath them and often vibrating their wings early in the warming process. They are not at all reliable, however, at assuming or holding a particular pose for the photographer. Some specimens instinctively seem to try to become as inconspicuous as possible, keeping their wings closed and flying only to escape to a hiding place. A few species, particularly some of the arctiid moths, play dead when handled, falling on their backs and staying still with legs in the air and abdomen curled up. Many specimens are quite willing to cling to a perch with their wings closed, but cannot easily be persuaded to flutter for a shot of the hind wings. Some will go for a short flight, landing with wings open, but then quickly snapping the wings closed again. A degree of patience is required, on the photographer's part, to take advantage of the moth's natural behavior for a good shot. A degree of caution is also appropriate, keeping a vial handy for recapture if the moth gets too lively! Several cycles of re-chilling may be necessary to get photos that adequately illustrate key features, and this will not harm the moth. Before releasing specimens back into their natural environment, I give them time to warm up in the vial, so that they will be ready to escape predators on release. |
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